Reprinted from CLUE magazine

Every civilized city can boast of several fine drinking establishments; places whose atmosphere and quality of barmanship is above average. However, the most discerning connoisseurs of mixology say that a handful of watering holes scattered around the globe are truly a cut above the rest. They find it impossible to choose a favorite because each boîte has unique charms that make it well worth a long trip.

Where are these legendary drinkeries? To put together a definitive list, we consulted a panel of veteran jet-set imbibers. All are agents of the T.I.L.E. worldwide secret service, an organization known as much for its savoir faire as for its uncompromising efficiency. Our experts point out that two critical elements distinguish a great bar from a good bar: an outstanding signature drink and, not coincidentally, an atmosphere that embodies its city's particular brand of high spirits. This powerful combination keeps loyal customers coming back from far and wide. Indeed, the signature cocktails are all well-known classics.

We obtained recipes for each spot's signature cocktail and are pleased to present them here so that the reader may evoke some flavor of these special hideaways. Of course, the essential ingredient, the ambience, can only be found at the drink's place of origin.

Some tipplers are sworn Marconi men, others thrive on the citrus sting of the Lancet. But at the Cadillac of hotel bars, the Walnut Room, the only drink that matters is the venerable Gaslight. As is the case with so many legendary cocktails, the Gaslight's origin is unclear. According to one story, it was invented on a zany night in 1933 when Ernest Hemingway and the Marx Brothers took over the bar and started mixing drinks. Another theory holds that it was created by flying-ace-turned-barman Hap Halliday just after the First World War.
GASLIGHT

  • 2 ozs. English gin
  • 1/2 oz. green Chartreuse (110 proof)
  • Lemon peel
Shake gin and Chartreuse with ice. Strain into prechilled cocktail glass. Twist lemon peel above drink and drop into glass.
Whatever the truth about its beginnings, by the late '30s, the Gaslight had become extremely popular with the smart crowd who frequented the Walnut Room. To this day, it is synonymous with New York elegance and sophistication. Nestled in a corner of the majestic Hotel St. Pierre on Fifth Avenue, the Walnut Room offers luncheon, dinner and entertainment as well as its famous cocktails.

Oochie's, in Chicago's Near North Side, began as a notorious speakeasy in the '20s. In those days, owner Ferucchio "Oochie" Paisano used corn whiskey from an Indiana moonshiner to create his famous Streetcar cocktail. Legend has it that Al Capone himself named this concoction. Apparently after gulping down his first glass, he exclaimed, "I feel like I been hit by a streetcar!" Now, of course, Oochie is a legitimate businessman and his bar is patronized by celebrated singers, Hollywood stars and distinguished politicians, and the Streetcar as we know it has long since been enshrined in the pantheon of eminent cocktails.
STREETCAR

  • 1-1/2 to 2 ozs. rye
  • 3/4 oz. Strega Liquore
  • Lemon peel
Stir rye and Strega well with ice. Strain into prechilled cocktail glass. Twist lemon peel above drink and drop into glass. This drink goes especially well with Clams Casino.
Oochie's and the Streetcar are the epitome of modern Chicago: urbane, yet substantial and down-to-earth. On Rush Street near Pearson, it serves Italian specialties for lunch and dinner and offers nightly entertainment, sometimes from the likes of Frank Sinatra and Louis Prima.
Toussaint's has been serving the world-renowned Lagniappe since the turn of the century. F. Clancy Dupépé, the high-living Creole who bought the bistro in 1898, reputedly perfected the drink as a hangover cure. It immediately caught on as a cocktail and has been the toast of the French Quarter ever since.
LAGNIAPPE

  • 1 teaspoon absinthe (if unavailable, use Pernod)
  • 2 ozs. bourbon
  • 1/4 oz. lime juice
  • 2 dashes Peychaud's bitters
  • Petite andouille (if unavailable, use a thin slice of andouille or pepperoni)
Swirl the absinthe around in prechilled old-fahioned glass until inside is completely coated. Add whiskey, lime juice, bitters and a large ice cube. Stir well. Drop a link of petite andouille into drink.
The "something extra" in this ingenious bit of alchemy is not the absinthe, but a tiny link of andouille, a spicy Cajun sausage. (Magliaro's Meats, an institution in its own right, still makes the "petite andouille," especially for Toussaint's according to Mr. Dupépé's original specifications.)
Toussaint's is on Decatur Street in New Orleans, across from the French Market. The bar stays open so late that market merchants like to drop by and begin their workday with a dawn eye-opener.

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